11 Best Trailer Hitches for SUVs (October 2026) Reviewed

Most SUVs need a Class III receiver hitch with a 2-inch tube, and the vehicle itself, not the hitch, sets the real ceiling on what you can tow. A Class III pairs with a 1-1/4-inch Class II receiver, a 2-inch receiver, and ball mounts up to a 2-5/16-inch ball. That is the answer for nearly every crossover and three-row SUV on the road today.

That said, a hitch is only half the equation. Payload, gross vehicle weight rating and the tow rating printed on your door jamb decide what actually moves, and a Class III rated to 6000 lb GTW cannot make a vehicle rated for 3500 lb tow a heavier trailer hauler.

Our team spent weeks reading the fitment notes, ratings and failure reports on eleven of the highest-reviewed receiver hitches and ball mounts sold for SUVs. This roundup covers vehicle-specific bolt-on hitches for popular models like the Toyota Highlander, Mazda CX-5, Nissan Rogue, Jeep Grand Cherokee, Chevy Equinox and Toyota RAV4, plus the drop and rise hitches and weight distribution hardware that travel trailer owners ask about most.

Updated for 2026, and every rating and review count below comes straight from the listing data. If your SUV is one of the common crossovers, you will also want to read our [guide to hitch bike racks for SUVs](https://www.benq-siemens.com/best-hitch-bike-racks-for-suvs/) once the receiver is in.

Top 3 Trailer Hitch Picks for SUVs in 2026

The Best Trailer Hitches for SUVs in 2026 at a Glance

1. Camco Eaz-Lift Elite Weight Distribution Kit – the Best Overall Pick

This is the one we recommend first, and the reason is not the rating. Out of more than 2000 reviews, the recurring theme is that the hitch puts the tow vehicle back level and stops the trailer from weaving at highway speed, which is a safety problem rather than a comfort problem.

What surprised us is how little assembly it needs. The 2-5/16 inch hitch ball and the sway control ball come pre-installed and torqued, and the U-bolts and chain package are in the same box, so the job is setting the spring bars and dialing in the clamp.

Owners regularly report that an hour of careful work on level ground is the whole installation. You will need a 3/4-inch torque wrench and a 1-1/8-inch socket, which is the one tool most home kits are missing.

The rating spread is narrow for a product this involved, with 81% of reviews at five stars. That consistency tells us the calibration process works when owners follow it.

Why this one earns the top spot

It is the only product here rated past 10000 lb GTW, at 12000 lb with 1200 lb of tongue weight. For a three-row SUV pulling a mid-size travel trailer, that headroom is the difference between a setup that feels marginal and one that does not.

The manually adjustable sway control is also a genuine advantage over fixed-bar systems. You can increase resistance in a crosswind and back it off in a parking lot without swapping hardware.

When to pick something else

The sway bar is genuinely loud, and owners describe growling or groaning when turning slowly. If you tow mostly in town and stop often, that noise gets old fast.

This is also not a receiver. It bolts to a vehicle that already has a Class IV or V receiver, so if your SUV has no hitch at all, you need a receiver first. The written instructions are also weak enough that we would budget time for a video walkthrough alongside them.

2. CURT 13182 Class 3 Hitch for Dodge Durango and Jeep Grand Cherokee – Best Value

If you own a Durango or a WK2 Grand Cherokee, this is the default answer. It bolts into the factory holes rather than requiring drilling, which is exactly what owners in the 2000-plus reviews describe.

The rating sits at 4.7 across 2075 reviews, with 86% of those at five stars. That is about as consistent as a vehicle-specific hitch gets.

The rating matters more than usual here because fitment is narrow. This part covers 2011 through 2026 Durango and 2012 through 2022 Grand Cherokee, and the SRT, SRT8 and Trackhawk trims are excluded.

The 6000 lb GTW and 600 lb tongue weight rating is genuinely stronger than the factory receivers these SUVs ship with, and it accepts a weight distribution system rated to 7500 lb.

What we checked before recommending it

Construction is all-welded carbon steel under a gloss powder coat, and the product is tested to SAE J684. CURT backs it with a limited lifetime warranty on the hitch and one year on the finish.

It is vehicle-specific, which is the whole point. You are not adapting a universal part to a frame, so the pin hole spacing and receiver height are already correct for the bumper.

Where owners run into trouble

Expect to trim or remove underbody plastic panels to fit the hitch body. It is a small job, but it is a job.

A 2-inch receiver alone is not a towing setup. You still need a wiring harness and a hitch pin, and most owners add a ball mount before the first trailer goes on. Check your model year against the fitment list before ordering, because the trims are excluded silently.

3. CURT 13591 Class 3 Hitch for Chevy Equinox, GMC Terrain, Pontiac Torrent and Saturn Vue – Best for Small Crossovers

Compact crossovers are the hardest group to buy for because the tow ratings are so low that a heavy hitch is pointless. This one matches the vehicles it fits.

The 3500 lb GTW and 350 lb tongue weight rating lines up with what an Equinox or Terrain is rated to tow in most configurations, and the 2-inch receiver takes a ball mount, bike rack or cargo carrier without any adapter.

The clever part is the platform coverage. Equinox, Terrain, Torrent and Vue share GM hardware, so a single part number serves four names, which cuts down on the guesswork that usually goes into SUV hitch orders.

That platform sharing has a limit. It stops at the model years listed for the platform, so a newer Equinox or a retired Vue needs a different part number entirely.

How the rating compares

At 4.7 stars from 1856 reviews with 83% five stars, this hitch is rated identically to the heavier-duty CURT models above it. That tells us the welding and finish hold up, not just the numbers on the label.

It is tested to SAE J684 and carries CURT’s limited lifetime warranty, one year on the finish. Owners repeatedly mention the welded carbon steel and the powder coat as the reasons for the rating.

Who should skip it

If your plans involve a travel trailer above 3500 lb, the number simply is not there. Move up to a heavier rated hitch and confirm your SUV’s tow rating allows it first.

Because it is vehicle-specific, do not expect it to fit anything that is not on that GM platform list. A hole pattern mismatch means drilling the frame, which is not a project most SUV owners want.

4. CURT 13200 Class 3 Hitch for the Toyota Highlander – Most Versatile Trailers

The Highlander is the most common SUV in this group, and the factory receiver on most years is the weak link. This CURT replaces it with a 6000 lb GTW unit rated to 900 lb of tongue weight.

That tongue weight number is the part to notice. It is higher than most crossover hitches offer, and it is what makes a weight distribution system rated to 8000 lb usable on a gas three-row SUV.

The exposed round-tube body is a deliberate design choice. Owners confirm it bolts into factory holes without dropping the exhaust or pulling the spare tire, which is the difference between a weekend install and a shop visit.

Fit reports are consistently tight to the bumper with no ground clearance loss, and the 4.7 rating across 1643 reviews comes with 85% five stars.

What makes this the travel trailer pick

The 900 lb tongue weight rating leaves room for a loaded coupler, which is where lighter hitches start to feel overloaded. Combined with the 8000 lb weight distribution compatibility, it is the most travel-trailer-capable receiver here for a unibody SUV.

Owners also report that the finish and galvanized hardware hold up on older Highlanders, which matters if the SUV already has road exposure under it.

The install gotcha nobody mentions

The underbody fascia trim has to be cut to clear the hitch, and once cut it does not go back on. The instructions do not show that modification clearly, so most owners work from a walkthrough instead.

Two of the six mounting bolts are notoriously hard to start. Pre-threading and lubricating them saves an hour, and you will need a second person or a jack stand to hold roughly 44 lb of steel in position.

5. Rhino USA Adjustable 6 Inch Drop and Rise Hitch – Best Adjustable Ball Mount

A stock SUV receiver sits high, and most travel trailer couplers sit low. That mismatch is why trailers ride nose-down and sway more than they should, and this is the cleanest fix we found.

The mount provides 6 inches of drop, which owners confirm is enough to level a trailer on receivers measuring 18 to 20 inches off the ground. Owners running leveling kits or taller suspensions get the same benefit.

The reversible ball is a practical detail. With the 2-inch ball the mount is rated to 8000 lb GTW, and flipped to the 2-5/16 inch ball it is rated to 12500 lb, so it works for a small utility trailer and a larger camper with the same hardware.

Roughly 860 reviews at 4.5 stars back that up. Owners on r/F250 single out Rhino USA receivers as a name they trust alongside the long-established brands.

When a drop hitch is worth it

If your trailer visibly rides nose-down, or you added a leveling kit or taller springs, a drop mount corrects it in one afternoon. The reverse rise position is useful the other way for low-hung trailers and lowered receivers.

Aluminum construction is a real advantage here. At under 17 lb it is far easier to handle than a comparable steel mount, and the powder coat resists weather.

What it cannot do

This is a ball mount, not a receiver. If your SUV has no hitch at all, you still need one of the vehicle-specific receivers listed above, and this has to pair with a 2-inch Class 3 or Class 4 opening.

Aluminum is not the preferred material for repeated heavy tongue weight applications, where steel holds up better. Owners also report that about 6% of reviews are one star, so inspect the ball and threads before the first trip.

6. Draw-Tite 75902 Class 3 Hitch for the Nissan Rogue – Best for Rogue Owners

The Rogue is one of the most common crossovers on the road, and this is the part number owners search for. It installs into factory holes without lowering the exhaust, which is the main thing people want from a bolt-on hitch.

Construction is solid, all-welded alloy steel under a two-part black powder coat, and it is tested to meet and exceed V-5 and SAE J684 standards with a limited lifetime warranty.

Two details make the install easier than most. The spare tire does not need to come out, and a jack stand or a helper is enough to get it done solo.

Rated at 3500 lb GTW and 350 lb tongue weight, this covers light-duty towing and any cargo carrier or rack, but it is explicitly not rated for weight distribution systems.

Check your model year first

The application covers 2008 through 2013 Rogue excluding the Krom, 2014 through 2020 Rogue excluding Sport, and the 2014 to 2015 Rogue Select. Owners of 2021 and newer models report the driver-side front bolt hole does not line up and fouls the muffler hanger.

That accounts for the roughly 10% of reviews that sit at one star and pulls the overall rating to 4.3. If you are on a 2021 or newer Rogue, this is the wrong part number.

Other limits to know

The driver-side plastic trim panel has to be notched, and it will not go back on unmodified. Unused factory frame holes are frequently rusty, so clean or tap the threads before you expect a bolt to start.

The receiver sits under the bumper, so anything larger than a bike rack needs a longer ball mount, and no lighting kit is included. A wiring harness is a separate purchase before you tow a trailer.

7. VEVOR Class 3 Hitch for the 2011-2021 Jeep Grand Cherokee – Best Split-Bracket Build

The idea here is simple and genuinely clever. Instead of one heavy welded unit, the hitch comes as three pieces that bolt together, so you can position each side separately instead of wrestling 32 lb of steel under a bumper.

Owners consistently report that the split design is the easiest part of the install, even when the rest of the job takes longer than expected.

The steel is Q345B, coated for wear, rust and UV resistance, and the listed towing capacity is 6000 lb with three hitch levels. A full hardware kit of M12 bolts, flange nuts and flat washers ships in the box, so nothing else needs sourcing.

At 4.2 stars from 471 reviews, this is the lowest-rated hitch in our lineup, and the gap comes down to documentation rather than the product itself.

What the split design buys you

Handling. Most one-piece hitches for the Grand Cherokee weigh around 30 lb and need a second person to hold in place. With split brackets you can align one side, bolt it, then handle the other, and the joint is as strong as a one-piece design according to owners.

The cost difference is real too, sitting well under half of comparable vehicle-specific hitches for the same vehicle.

Why the rating is the lowest here

The instructions are the consistent complaint. Owners say the manual does not explain which of the two non-identical brackets goes on which side, does not show the covered frame holes, and gives no torque specification, so people end up relying on community walkthroughs.

Frame bolts are also extremely tight with almost no room for a ratchet, and a small number of buyers report hole alignment slightly off or a U-bolt that was not large enough for their tow loop. Budget three hours and verify the hardware in the box before you start.

8. Reese 44650 Class 3 Hitch for the Jeep Grand Cherokee – Best Recessed Fit

Appearance is the reason to pick this one. The receiver tucks up under the rear bumper so it is far less visible than a typical bolt-on hitch, which matters if you do not want your SUV to look modified.

Owners report the fit is exact to the factory bolt holes and that installation takes about 30 minutes once the existing bumper bolts come out.

The hitch is rated to 5000 lb GTW and 500 lb tongue weight, and it remains usable with a weight distribution system rated to 7500 lb. That is more headroom than the Draw-Tite and Equinox hitches in this group.

At 4.6 stars from 437 reviews, the praise is consistent. Owners using it for bike racks and gear report no movement or loosening over time.

Where the build quality shows

It is solid, all-welded steel with a two-part black powder coat, and it is tested to meet and exceed V-5 and SAE J684 standards. The construction is the reason owners describe it as holding up under repeated use.

The recessed position is a genuine design benefit rather than a marketing line, because the receiver sits inside the bumper line instead of hanging below it.

What to watch for

At roughly 32 lb, this is effectively a two-person lift unless you use a floor jack. Hold it with a jack stand before you start the bolts.

Some buyers report chipped powder coat from poor packaging on arrival, and no instructions or rubber hitch cover are included in the box. Check the finish before you bolt it on.

9. ECOTRIC Class 3 Stainless Hitch for Small Crossovers – Best Stainless Build

Corrosion is the deciding factor for a lot of owners, and this is the only stainless steel hitch in the group. That matters in coastal states, on salted winter roads, or if the SUV sees boat launches regularly.

It bolts directly to factory mounting points on the smaller GM-platform crossovers, and the standard 2-inch receiver opening takes ball mounts, bike racks, tow hooks and cargo carriers.

The rating is 4.5 from 218 reviews, and owners describe the finish as holding up to weather without rusting through the way coated steel can.

The 4500 lb GTW and 675 lb tongue weight rating is higher than the CURT and Draw-Tite crossovers in this lineup, and the listing states the same capacity with weight distribution.

What makes it different

Stainless steel. Everything else in this category is powder-coated carbon or alloy steel, which begins to show surface rust at bolt holes and welds once the coating is breached. A stainless hitch tolerates that.

The receiver geometry is standard, so accessories carry over from any other Class III setup on your SUV.

Why some owners skip it

The construction is not all-welded. That makes it lighter than a fully welded hitch, and it limits heavy-duty use compared with the premium options.

Instructions are not included and professional installation is recommended in some cases, which adds friction for a weekend installer. For most buyers the corrosion resistance is worth it, but for someone towing heavy loads on every trip, a fully welded hitch is the safer bet.

10. Rigid Hitch R3-0518 for the 2006-2018 Toyota RAV4 – Best for RAV4 Owners

This has the highest star rating in the group at 4.8, and owners describe the fit as exact on 2006 through 2018 RAV4 models. Made in the USA from alloy steel with a black powder coat, it is the build quality we look for.

The install is the easiest described here: no drilling, factory mounting points, included hardware, roughly 20 minutes.

The rating comes from a smaller base than the CURT hitches above, with 144 reviews. A high score on a smaller sample is encouraging, but it is worth weighing against the 2000-plus review histories on the top picks.

The 4500 lb GTW and 450 lb tongue weight rating suits a RAV4’s actual tow capability, and the 2-inch receiver is standard, so common ball mounts and racks fit.

Best things about this choice

The combination of an exact fit, a drill-free install and a USA-made alloy steel build is hard to find at this rating level. Owners repeatedly mention the powder coat holding up and the receiver accepting standard accessories without an adapter.

At 45 lb it is the heaviest hitch here, so plan the lift accordingly.

What you still have to buy

The ball mount and hitch ball are not included. Until you add them, the receiver works for racks and carriers but not for towing a trailer.

Fitment stops at the 2018 model year. If you have a newer RAV4, this part number does not apply, and you should confirm the year before ordering rather than after.

11. KUAFU Class 3 Hitch for the 2006-2018 Toyota RAV4 – Budget Pick

If your RAV4 year falls between 2006 and 2018 and you want a rated receiver without the premium-brand markup, this is the cheapest way to a 4500 lb GTW and 675 lb tongue weight rating in the group.

The steel is professionally finished in black powder coat to isolate it from air and moisture, which is what keeps the rust off the bolt holes and welds.

Installation needs screws and no drilling or welding, and unlike several budget hitches in this category the box includes installation hardware and instructions.

The rating is 4.4 from 111 reviews, which is a smaller and more polarized base than the brands above it.

Where the money is saved

Nothing structural. The 675 lb tongue weight and 4500 lb GTW rating matches what higher-priced stainless hitches in this group offer, and the rating is stated for both weight carrying and weight distribution use.

That makes it the value pick for a RAV4 owner towing a small utility trailer or running a cargo carrier.

Why buyers should look twice

The one-star share is higher than the premium brands, and owners focused purely on the lowest cost may hit fit or finish compromises. That is a fair trade only if your use is light.

It is vehicle-specific to the 2006 to 2018 RAV4 and will not fit other SUVs. Confirm your exact model year before ordering, because a mismatch means returning a heavy welded steel part.

Trailer Hitch Classes Explained: What Class Does Your SUV Need

Almost every SUV sold today needs a Class III receiver hitch with a 2-inch tube. Class III accepts a 1-1/4-inch Class II adapter, a 2-inch receiver, and ball mounts up to a 2-5/16-inch ball, which is why it fits bikes, cargo carriers, boats and mid-size travel trailers with one part.

The five hitch classes in plain numbers

Class I uses a 1-1/4-inch receiver, carries up to 2000 lb GTW and 200 lb tongue weight, and is common on small crossovers and hatchbacks. Class II keeps the 1-1/4-inch receiver and doubles the numbers to 3500 lb GTW and 350 lb tongue weight, which is the ceiling on many compact SUVs.

Class III is the 2-inch receiver at up to 6000 lb GTW and 600 lb tongue weight, and it is the default for crossovers and three-row SUVs. Class IV moves to 2-1/2 inches with 10000 lb GTW and 1000 lb tongue weight, plus weight distribution capability up to 12000 lb.

Class V is the heavy end at 2-1/2 inches with 18000 lb GTW and 1800 lb tongue weight, used mainly on body-on-frame trucks. For an SUV, anything above Class III is rare outside a heavy duty truck-based model.

Receiver size and ball size are not the same number

The most common purchase mistake in this category is buying a 1-1/4-inch Class II ball mount for a 2-inch Class III receiver. The two openings are not interchangeable, and the smaller mount simply will not enter the larger tube without an adapter collar.

Ball diameter is a separate choice again. A 1-7/8 inch ball suits a light utility trailer or a boat trailer with a smaller coupler. A 2-5/16 inch ball is required for most travel trailers and RVs, and the cam hardware has to match too, because a 2-5/16 inch ball with 1-1/2 inch studs does not fit a standard ball mount.

Check the coupler opening on your actual trailer before you buy the ball. Owners who tow two different trailer types on one SUV are the group most often caught by this, which is why the reversible ball on the Rhino USA drop hitch exists at all.

Drop and rise, and when a low receiver is a problem

A receiver that hangs low drags on a speed bump, and a receiver that sits high makes a coupler sit nose-down. Drop and rise mounts solve the second problem by extending below the receiver, and they cost far less than replacing the whole hitch.

The catch is ground clearance.

If your SUV has air suspension or a leveling kit, measure the receiver height first. The ball must match coupler height with the trailer connected, not while it is sitting on the hitch alone.

Match the hitch to your tow rating and payload

Your door jamb sticker lists the tow rating, and that number is a ceiling on the hitch you buy. A Class III rated to 6000 lb cannot raise a vehicle rated to tow 3500 lb, so buying the biggest hitch you can fit is wasted money.

Payload is the limit most owners miss. Tongue weight counts against the payload you are already using for passengers, cargo and a tongue box, and running out of payload is what gets a SUV in trouble on a grade. The weight distribution hitch we picked first exists precisely because it moves tongue load onto the tow vehicle’s axles.

Gross vehicle weight rating is the third limit. The combined weight of your SUV, trailer, hitch, and everything in and on both cannot exceed it. If you carry a bike rack on the hitch, that rack counts too.

Which class fits which SUV segment

Small crossovers like the Equinox, Terrain, Rogue and Vue usually cap out at Class III with a 3500 lb GTW part, which is exactly why those hitches exist at that rating.

Midsize three-row crossovers such as the Highlander, Palisade and Telluride take the same Class III format but at 6000 lb GTW and 600 to 900 lb tongue weight. That extra tongue weight rating is what makes weight distribution usable on a unibody body.

Body-on-frame SUVs such as the 4Runner and full-size Explorer move up. A 4Runner can take a Class IV receiver, and the higher 10000 lb GTW and 12000 lb weight distribution ratings open up larger travel trailers.

OEM, aftermarket or concealed

The factory hitch on an SUV is usually the weakest link. OEM receivers are commonly rated to 3500 lb while the vehicle itself tows more, so replacing it with an aftermarket bolt-on is how most owners unlock their SUV’s real rating.

A concealed hitch hides the receiver behind a removable panel, which restores the factory look. The trade-off is cost, installation complexity, and the fact that the removable cover and extra welds are a permanent change to the bumper.

Fitment is the deciding factor in all three cases. A vehicle-specific bolt-on uses factory holes, which is why nearly every install note in this roundup mentions trimming plastic but not drilling the frame.

Curt vs Reese vs the rest

Curt and Reese are the two names owners on r/F250 most often treat as safe defaults, and the difference is mostly catalog. Curt covers a wide range of crossovers and offers the 900 lb tongue weight rating on the Highlander, while Reese emphasizes recessed receivers that tuck under the bumper.

Draw-Tite shares manufacturing roots with Reese and uses the same all-welded, SAE J684-tested approach, with the Rogue part at 3500 lb GTW. VEVOR competes on a split-bracket design and complete hardware kit rather than catalog depth.

ECOTRIC is the stainless steel option for corrosion-heavy climates, and KUAFU is the budget end of the list. The practical rule we came back to: match the part number to your exact year, make and model first, then compare ratings within the hitches that actually fit.

Installing a Trailer Hitch on an SUV: Drilling, Wiring and Accessories

Most of these hitches bolt into factory holes in about an hour, but the install is where owner frustration concentrates. Forum threads on model-specific subreddits are dominated by one question: does my exact year, make and model fit, and will I have to drill?

The exhaust and heat shield step

On gas SUVs with a rear exhaust tip, the hitch has to clear the pipe and the heat shield. Round-tube designs like the Highlander hitch are built specifically to clear the exhaust without dropping it, which is why they are the easier install on a crowded underbody.

Some installs require cutting or notching underbody plastic panels, and the cut piece does not reinstall afterward. That is normal on nearly every vehicle-specific hitch we covered, and it is a five-minute job with a cutoff wheel.

Wiring and brake controller

Almost none of these hitches include a lighting kit. To tow a trailer you need a wiring harness for the 7-pin connector and, for any trailer with brakes over a certain weight, a brake controller mounted inside the cabin.

The vehicle-specific hitches here are also sold without a hitch pin. Order a pin with a clip or a locking pin at the same time, because a tow rating means nothing without a pin that cannot back out.

Torque, rusty frame threads and the bolts that will not start

Factory frame holes are often painted over before the vehicle ships, which means the threads inside are partially sealed with paint. A bolt driven into a sealed hole needs to be cleaned, tapped or at minimum run a thread chaser before it will start.

Owners of the Highlander and Rogue hitches both describe two bolts being exceptionally hard to thread, and the fix is the same: start them by hand, back them out to clean the threads, then apply anti-seize before the final torque. Do not power a bolt home from the start.

Torque specifications are usually not printed in aftermarket instructions, which is exactly the criticism levelled at the VEVOR kit. When a torque value is missing, follow the torque figures in the vehicle service manual for the factory bolts, and check the hitch is fully seated with no gap before the final pass.

Owners who replaced the pin within a few thousand miles

Cheap hitch pins wear faster than owners expect. One long-term owner of the Camco kit reported heavy wear on the supplied locking pin after roughly 2500 miles and swapped it for a CURT pin, and that experience is common enough to plan for.

Inspect the pin, its clip and the receiver holes at every pre-trip check. A pin that shows side play or a clip that has stretched is a trailer separation waiting to happen, and the part is inexpensive to replace.

The accessory checklist

To actually tow, you need a ball mount matched to your receiver size, a hitch ball in the correct diameter, a hitch pin with clip or lock, and a wiring harness. Add a brake controller if the trailer is equipped with brakes.

For non-towing use, a hitch bike rack is the most common accessory and we cover those separately in our [SUV hitch bike rack roundup](https://www.benq-siemens.com/best-hitch-bike-racks-for-suvs/). A cargo carrier uses the same receiver and the same pin, so nothing else changes if your use shifts from a trailer to a deck.

Owners who tow travel trailers add the weight distribution head shown at number one above, plus sway control. Owners who tow a small utility trailer need none of that, which is why we rated the weight distribution kit as a specialist pick rather than a default.

Frequently Asked Questions

Which Trailer Hitch for SUVs Should You Buy in 2026

The best trailer hitches for SUVs come down to your exact model year and what you tow. Most owners should start with a vehicle-specific Class III bolt-on, and our editor’s choice is the Camco Eaz-Lift Elite weight distribution kit at number one, rated to 12000 lb GTW with 1200 lb of tongue weight and a manually adjustable sway control that owners credit with stopping trailer weave at highway speed.

If you only need a receiver for a cargo carrier or a light trailer, the CURT 13200 for the 2014 to 2019 Highlander is the next choice, with a 6000 lb GTW rating and a 900 lb tongue weight rating that makes weight distribution usable on a gas three-row SUV. The CURT 13182 covers Durango and WK2 Grand Cherokee owners at the lowest cost of the vehicle-specific options.

If you pull a mid-size travel trailer and want sway control, the Camco kit is the pick. If you own a 2021 or newer Nissan Rogue, skip the Draw-Tite and confirm your part number before ordering anything.

Check your tow rating and payload first, then match the part number to your year, make and model. Everything else is preference.